
Our skin naturally eliminates dead cells and gives space to new cells. Exfoliation accelerates this process especially when the natural elimination was not accomplished as it had to be. This is the way to avoid clogged pores, to get a more even tone, fade fine lines and wrinkles. Clogged pores are the result of build up of dead cells, impurities and oil. They may be enlarged pores, blackheads or whiteheads. Comedogenic ingredients in cosmetics may also lead to clogged pores. Unhealthy diet, makeup, dirty hands when we touch our face (we always wash our hands before applying any cosmetic even before face cleansing) and pollution.
Therefore, exfoliation is necessary to maintain our skin healthy and to avoid acne and breakouts.
It can be carried out in 3 different ways:
Mechanical exfoliation
Mechanical exfoliation with a natural sponge, brush or a scrub. Scrub is a cosmetic product with grains that will help to eliminate keratinised dead skin cells (corneocytes). Small circular motions upwards should be effectuated. Rinse with lukewarm water afterwards.
If you choose the mechanical exfoliation, try as much as you can to be gentle with your skin. Always choose a mild scrub so as to avoid irritating your skin. Moisturizing is essential after exfoliation.
Chemical exfoliation with AHAs, BHAs or PHAs.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids of different molecular weight. Most common AHA is the Glycolic Acid which is the smallest molecule of all the Alpha Hydroxy Acids. In skincare products are also used Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Citric Acid.
Lower or higher concentrations of Glycolic exist in cosmetics market. Higher concentrations may be irritating and you should apply them with caution. Start with a lower concentration to see how your skin will react.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) contrary to AHA, they are liposoluble, eliminate dead cells, penetrate the skin and unclog the pores. Salicylic acid is better for oily and acne-prone skin.
Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) such as gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, zinc gluconate and galactose are water-soluble, have higher molecular weight which makes them to act on the surface . They are less irritating and the same time the hydrate and boost the skin barrier.
Enzyme exfoliation
Enzyme exfoliation, is significantly gentler than the other two. Enzymes are extracted from fruits such as pineapple, pumpkin or papaya. It is a very good option for very sensitive skin.
Always do a patch test before applying a new product. If you skin is irritated because of other active ingredients you use, e.g. retinoids, vitamin C, do not exfoliate. Moisturize and nourish, use repairing serums or creams and give your skin the time to recover. If the skin has wounds, cuts or sunburn, don’t exfoliate.
If you go for acids, choose the one that is appropriate for your skin concerns. The important is to introduce them slowly, in lower strength in order to give the skin the time to adjust to the new substance. Under no circumstances should you go directly to higher concentrations because you think you will have better and faster results and that your skin can tolerate them.
Never over-exfoliate whatever procedure you chose. Avoid using different exfoliants in the same skincare routine.
Special thanks to pexels.com for the free photos download as well as to the creator of this specific photo.
If you wish, tell me in the comments which exfoliation method you use.
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