Humans are unable to produce Vitamin C due to the absence of an enzyme called L-gluconolactone oxidase. They have to get it through the food. Oral supplementation could help as well. Topical application has many benefits for the skin’s appearance and health too.

Vitamin C skincare benefits

It is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from the free radicals. Free radicals (oxidative stress) break cells down. As we age, the ability of our body to fight them, is reduced. Moreover, external factors such as air pollution, smoking, alcohol, bad eating habits speed up their production.

Acts against hyperpigmentation and brightens the skin. It actually inhibits the action of tyrosinase the enzyme that is responsible for the conversion of tyrosine (an amino acid) into melanin.

Stimulates collagen production from the fibroblasts, cells that reside in the dermis beneath the epidermis layer as well as the elastin synthesis. The number of fibroblasts reduce with the age and so does their activity. As a result, the skin loses its elasticity. Skin regeneration, also decreases.  Vitamin C contributes to skin’s elasticity and tightening.

Enhances the effectiveness of sunscreen. Vitamin C can’t be used as a  protection against sun damage, it only increases the efficacy of the sunscreen.

Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

The most active and most studied form is L-ascorbic acid. However, L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble and has difficulty in penetrating the skin barrier that is full of lipids. It is also unstable and easily oxidizes by the heat, light and oxygen. Research has shown that by decreasing the pH below 3.5 was effective in increasing stability and ability of penetration. The addition of ferulic acid contributed to this.

Serums that contain L-ascorbic acid between 10-20% are more effective because the substance is more biologically available. Concentrations more than 20% could be irritating for the skin.

Sunscreens are not 100% effective in blocking free radicals by UV radiation.

Vitamin C and E together have a synergistic action against oxidation. That being said, they act together for photoprotection.

How to incorporate Vitamin C in a skincare routine?

Normally, a Vitamin C serum should be used in the morning followed by the sunscreen. If you want to add other antioxidants such as Resveratrol or Coenzyme Q 10, you can. It is a great combination, indeed.

If you feel that your skin can’t tolerate the pure Vitamin C, you can opt for a derivative.

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You may also apply a vitamin C eye cream for brightening the eye area. It may improve the appearance of dark circles and at the same time offer its antioxidants properties. I prefer using an eye cream that combines the properties of a vitamin C derivative together with the coenzyme Q10 and the vitamin E (tocopherol). Needless to say, that you should always wear sunglasses that offer 100% UV protection.

However, if you feel that you don’t want to apply it in the morning routine, you can always do it at night but consider first the ingredients of the other serums you may use. You shouldn’t use it with retinoids and hydroxy-acids to avoid potential inflammation and irritation of the skin. You should also avoid to use it with a peptide serum because of the acidic pH of the vitamin. It can make the peptides ineffective.

In case that your skin can’t tolerate the Vitamin C or any of its derivatives, you can perfectly use other antioxidants in your skincare.

To sum up, vitamin C as powerful antioxidant contributes to collagen synthesis, acts against hyperpigmentation, protects from photodamaging and it is therefore essential in skincare as long as your skin tolerates it.