
Properly hydrate is essential, it is the best gift you can offer to your skin along with the sunscreen.
A moisturized skin is supple, smooth, glowing, has a more even tone and fine lines and wrinkles are less visible. It is overall healthy.
There are three types of moisturizing factors that should be combined in a cosmetic product : humectants, occlusives and emollients.
Humectants are hygroscopic (water absorbing) substances that attract water to retain humidity on the skin barrier. They bind water from the air and the skin’s deeper layers in order to maintain moisture. They come in two forms: naturally derived and synthetic. Both types can be found in skincare products as well as personal care products. They are generally combined with occlusives and emollients .
Occlusives help to lock moisture by creating a barrier on the surface of the skin and prevent its evaporation. They don’t hydrate. They remain on the skin’s surface and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Emollients are used to soothe and hydrate by delivering lipids to the skin. Therefore, they moisturize and nourish at the same time.
Humectants are generally paired with occlusives to ensure moisture and emollients to smooth the skin.
Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in the body (eyes, joints and skin). As we age, the production of HA slows down. Consequently, the skin is less plump and dehydrated. We find it in skincare formulas under the names of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronan. It is a humectant. There are several types of HA. Low molecular might better penetrate the lower layers of the skin. High molecular can’t penetrate and remains on the surface. Sodium hyaluronate has lower molecular weight than hyaluronic acid and can better penetrate the epidermis, the skin’s top layer. Hydrolyzed HA has a lower molecular weight because it is HA in smaller molecules for better absorption.
Glycerin or glycerol is also a humectant.It is generally safe for all skin types. It is present in almost every cosmetic product but we don’t know the exact concentration. Be wise and check the ingredients list. Glycerine should be on the second or third spot of the list in order to be more effective. You’d better avoid to apply pure glycerin to your face. Must be diluted and for this reason, it would be better to use serums or creams formulated in the labs.
Caprylic or capric triglyceride is an emollient that makes the skin smooth.
Panthenol (provitamin B5) is a precursor of pantothenic acid. It is a humectant.
Trehalose is a molecule composed of 2 glucose molecules. Apart from its moisturizing properties it has also antioxidant as well as soothing properties.
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) or sodium polyglutamate (although less common in skincare formulas) made of glutamic acid molecules (amino acid). It’s a humectant.
Aloe vera, smooths, calms down, hydrates the skin.
Dimethicone, is an occlusive and an emollient at the same time. It belongs to the silicones and it is considered safe in skincare products. Makes the skin smooth and creates a protective barrier. Fills in the fine lines and wrinkles but temporarily.
Shea butter, Cocoa butter, Castor oil, Argan oil, jojoba oil are occlusives and emollients.
Squalane and Ceramides belong to the emollients.
Urea, a humectant and emollient has also mild keratolytic action (in lower concentration) which means that reduces the dead cell build up.
Beta-glucan, a polysaccharide is a humectant and emollient that soothes the skin.
You may also apply a serum or cream with ceramides and fatty acids to ensure your skin’s barrier health. If you want to know more about the ceramides, you can have a look at my post about them. Here is the link
https://www.christiannak.com/?p=428
If you want to read more about the skin barrier, dry skin and moisturizing, here is my post https://www.christiannak.com/?p=19
To sum up, you should never neglect your skin’s hydration. A well moisturized skin (from inside and outside) functions at its best. It looks beautiful, radiant and it is healthy. The use of sunscreen and moisturizer should be the key steps of a skincare routine even you don’t want to use any other active substances.
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