A face cleanser is a product used in skincare specifically formulated to eliminate dirt, makeup, oil, and sunscreen . Its use is a key-step in a skincare routine because not only it cleanses skin but it prepares for the active ingredients of serum and creams. Nevertheless, the use of cleanser has its drawbacks. I believe that it is the most difficult choice.

WHAT A FACE CLEANSER OFFERS TO THE SKIN

Eliminates dirt from the skin’s surface.

Prepares skin for the active ingredients . Those ingredients can’t work on skin that is full of impurities.

Helps maintain skin pores clean .

DIFFERENT TYPES OF CLEANSERS

Cleansing creams seem to be more hydrating and suitable for sensitive and dry skin. Their texture is generally thick and creamy. Not only they are gentle to the skin but also contain moisturizing factors.

Cleansing gels have deep cleansing properties. Their texture is generally lightweight. They help unclog pores.

Cleansing foams have an airy texture that lathers when combined with water. I personally think they dehydrate my skin at least the ones I’ve tried so far.

Cleansing oils cleanse skin from impurities, makeup and sunscreen while at the same time they help maintain moisture. They are generally used as a first step in facial cleansing. When mixed with water, they emulsify, cleanse and they are easily rinsed away.

Micellar water consists of micelles, small oily molecules suspended in water.  They have a hydrophobic and hydrophilic end. Micelles attract impurities, makeup, excessive oil and eliminate them effectively.

SURFACTANTS IN FACIAL CLEANSERS

They are also known as surface-active agents. Their activity consists of acting on the surface by eliminating dirt and oil. Their molecular structure consists of  a hydrophilic and a lipophilic end. They help water to be mixed with oils and impurities in order to eliminate them. At the same time, they create lather and stabilize it.

Types of surfactants

Anionic (with a negative charge) create a strong lather and they are more effective in eliminating dirt and oil. Sodium Lauryl sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate are the most common. They are generally found in the ingredients list of shampoos, shower gels and face cleansers. They are harsh cleansing agents that can strip skin of its natural oils.

Cationic (with a positive charge) are not very common in face skincare products. They have antimicrobial and antibacterial properties apart from the cleansing ones.  They are very effective but at the same time can cause irritation, dryness and maybe inflammation.

Non-ionic (with no charge) are gentler and they can be low-foaming or non-foaming. They have less likelihood to strip away natural oils of the skin. They are suitable for sensitive or dry skin. Coco Clucoside, from coconut oil and glucose is one of the most common surfactants of this type. It is used in skincare products. It is generally gentle to the skin.

Amphoteric, they are effective in cleansing and preserve the skin’s moisture. Most common amphoteric surfactants is Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Although surfactants are very functional, their use has its downsides. They alter the skin’s pH and may disrupt skin barrier function.

Which Facial Cleanser To Choose?

Unfortunately, you have to experiment with different products until you find the right one. No one can tell you which product is suitable for your skin or how many times per day you should do facial cleansing. There is no one-size-fits-all solution. I may suggest a product to you, but you will choose based on your skin’s needs.

Things you should take into consideration

Cleansers containing harsh surfactants can dry out, harm your skin barrier and cause inflammation. If we add the fact that a cleanser may also contain hydroxy-acids, the damage may be more serious.

If you exfoliate you skin with hydroxy-acids, you should avoid using a facial cleanser containing  them too. You will strip your skin of its natural oils.

If you have oily or acne-prone skin, the approach is different. But in my opinion, it is better to consult your dermatologist.

A mild, hypoallergenic and dermatologically tested facial cleanser is always the best solution.

In case that you have skin conditions, avoid cleansers with containing hydroxy-acids. They can exacerbate them.

You should use a toner after face cleansing, to rebalance your skin’s pH. Unfortunately, many toners are alcohol-based and may cause further dryness and irritation. It is preferable an alcohol-free toner to sooth, calm and hydrate your skin.

After the use of toner and before your serums with active ingredients, apply an essence. Essences generally contain ingredients that are beneficial for the skin.

Moisturize and nourish your skin.

The bottom line: Facial cleansing is a key step in a skincare routine. It is the foundation of your skincare ritual. Finding the right product might be the most difficult. If an active irritates and dehydrates your skin, you can always discontinue its use. However, you can’t avoid cleansing your face. With a little effort and testing you will find the right product for your skin’s needs.