Fibroblasts are cells, in the middle layer of the skin, the dermis that help new cells to grow. They produce collagen, the protein of our skin, muscles, bones and connective tissues. Collagen  is responsible for the firmness and elasticity of our skin. Elastin is also produced by the fibroblasts.

Peptides or polypeptides are short chains of amino acids. They are the building blocks of the above proteins.

As we age, the production of collagen and elastin decreases .

Common signs of aging

the skin is less plump

looses elasticity and thickness

is saggy

wrinkles appear

has uneven skin tone

the pores start to be more visible

Moreover, external factors such as oxidative stress from the free radicals, inflammation, sun exposure make the skin to age.

Some studies suggest that using products with peptides could help. Although they seem to be an actual trend, they offer benefits.

Types of peptides

Most common peptides in skincare are the signal peptides, short chains of amino acids  that carry information for the proteins (collagen and elastin) secretion.

Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4) is a small amino acid. It is believed that it can enhance collagen production and therefore reduce the signs of aging.

Matrixyl-3000  is made up of 2 peptides , the Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 which stimulates collagen production) and  Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 which has anti inflammatory properties and contributes to the regeneration of the skin.  Both amino acids are attached to palmitic acid which is a fatty acid. This bonding makes them more oil-soluble and offers a better penetration to the skin.

You may have a look at my post about the peptides serums that I use https://www.christiannak.com/?p=870

Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides such as Argireline  (acetyl hexapeptide-8 or acetyl hexapeptide-3), a synthetic peptide (made of 6 amino acids) that temporarily blocks muscle contraction and targets the dynamic wrinkles on the forehead and crow’s feet.  It is often referred as Botox in-a-bottle.

Carrier peptides deliver copper to help produce collagen and elastin. Copper peptides are the most common, used to stimulate collagen production, as well as help the skin healing.  If used regularly there is a remarkable reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. However, allergic reaction was observed such as irritation, hives and redness. You should always do a patch test and in case that you notice similar symptoms, don’t use them.

Peptides shouldn’t be mixed hydroxy-acids (AHAs, BHAs) . Acids may cause hydrolysis of the peptides which will make them ineffective. On the contrary, they can be paired with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, retinol and other antioxidants.

Although it is claimed that peptides can be used with vitamin C in the same skincare routine, I don’t agree. The low pH of the L-ascorbic acid can render the peptides ineffective. It is better to apply them at different times of the day.

If you want to buy a serum, have a look at the ingredients list. Peptides should be placed close to the top to be efficacious.

In a nutshell, the use of peptides in skincare seems to be safe and beneficial. If your skin doesn’t tolerate any retinoid, they may be a good alternative.