Your skin barrier seems to be compromised. How did this happen? You probably applied too many active ingredients, you may have over-exfoliated,  you used retinoids in a wrong way or you combined different active substances that you should not. You might also have used a popular cosmetic seen on social media that harmed your skin. There is no need to panic. There are solutions to your skin issues but you won’t see the positive effects immediately. Patience is required.

First of all, a few things about the skin barrier. The stratum corneum (skin barrier) is the external layer of the epidermis. It is the shield that protect the deeper layers of your skin from the environment. Many parts contribute to its structure in order to provide the protection for the lower skin layers. It actually consists of dead cells (corneocytes) surrounded by lipids. Dead shells are eliminated and replaced by new skin cells.

The skin barrier is also referred as lipid barrier or moisture barrier. It is the layer that ensures hydration. The lipids are a blend of ceramides, fatty acids and other nutrients. When the skin barrier is compromised, the first thing you will notice is dehydration. Common symptoms are itchy red inflamed skin, loss of elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles are more prominent.

The main problem is that we often believe that by integrating many active substances, we could achieve positive effects in a short period of time. What happens next is  that  our  skin reacts, the actives don’t work anymore and we finally get the opposite effect. Let alone that sometimes we think that because a skincare routine worked for other women, it would work for us in the same way. We don’t have all the same skin type.

How to repair the skin barrier

First of all back off ! Discontinue the use of active serums or creams. This is a very important step. You can’t expect your skin to recover by using retinoids or hydroxy-acids or whatever is a powerful anti-aging active ingredient.

Change you face cleanser in case that you feel it is not so gentle to your skin.

Moisturize and nourish your skin as often as you can. Apply a serum or a cream that contains moisturizing substances.

Check if your moisturizer contains any hydroxy-acid. Could cause more irritation.

You may also prefer a repairing serum or cream. They generally contain ingredients that help reduce inflammation and at the same time repair the skin. In case that your skin likes Centella asiatica, you may purchase a serum or cream. If your skin doesn’t like it, check the ingredients list to see if centella asiatica or its components are part of it. My skin doesn’t tolerate it. Consequently, I always check the ingredients list.

You can also try a cream enriched with Omega fatty acids. A cream that contains those acids is part of my every day skincare routine although my skin barrier is not impaired.  Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are essential to the skin’s health. They have anti-inflammatory properties, enhance the skin barrier and smooth the skin. They are also necessary in case of eczema and dermatitis.

You may also use a cream with pre- and pro-biotics to increase the skin’s immunity. They strengthen the skin barrier.

A cream with ceramides will help too. They are fats or lipids found in the epidermis, the outer layer of skin. I also use a cream with ceramides.

You don’t need to purchase all of those products. I am giving more options.

Don’t neglect your  broad spectrum sunscreen. A skin with impaired skin barrier is sensitive to sunlight.

Avoid any cosmetics that contain alcohol denat. Ideally you should avoid any fragrance too. However, I know it is difficult to find the right product and to be honest, I stopped running after serums without alcohol and fragrance. It depends also on the position of the alcohol denat in the ingredients list.

I would say to avoid the use of foundation for a certain time. Foundations tend to dehydrate the skin.

To sum up, if your skin barrier is compromised you first need to repair it.  Forget about active ingredients. Depending on the damage, it might take time and during that time you must be patient. Once your skin gets back to normal, re-evaluate your skincare routine. Introduce the active ingredients you want one by one (not all together) to see how your skin will react. You may have to eliminate some active ingredients or use them on different skincare routines.

Special thanks to pexels.com for the free photos download as well as to the creator of this specific photo.