Retinoids are derivatives  of the Vitamin A used in the cosmetic products for their anti-aging action.They are synthetic, produced in the laboratories.

A simplified illustration of their metabolism is as follows:

retinyl esters → retinol→ retinaldehyde → retinoic acid (tretinoin)

The three first are available as Over-The- Counter (OTC). Esters may appear under the following names in the ingredient list, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate or retinyl propionate. The more steps needed to convert the derivative into an active form, the weaker its action. Therefore, retinoic acid esters are the least effective but also the ones that will cause less irritation. Retinaldehyde or retinal is more potent than retinol.

The way a retinoid is made in the lab determines the effectiveness of the product. Cosmetics that are combined with alcohol are considered more effective because they are better absorbed by the skin. And this is where the difficulties begin. Alcohol dehydrates the skin and can compromise the skin barrier. In combination with retinol, even more.

Benefits of the use of retinol or retinaldehyde (retinal)

Boost collagen production and slow down its breakdown. This in turn means reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.

Cause cells turnover which reveals a smoother skin. They improve skin texture and help the skin get a more even tone.

Help fade dark spots and sun damage.

Increase skin firmness.

Cleanse the pores and act against acne.

Enhance radiance because of the cell turnover and the improvement of skin texture.

Reduce inflammation caused by breakouts.

Although the potential benefits seem to be very promising, their use may have its downsides if they are not properly used.

Possible risks

Skin irritation and redness. This may happen even if used correctly and it can be due to the fact that your skin can’t tolerate them.

Dehydrated skin

Burning sensation especially at the beginning of use or when you decide to increase the concentration.

Flaking

Sun sensitivity. The skin is more vulnerable to UV rays.

Skin purge

How to use it if you are a beginner

Cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser.

Start with a low concentration once or twice a week to give your skin the time to adjust to the new active substance. Slowly increase the frequency of use but don’t do it right away because you think that your skin tolerates it. You will suddenly feel the side effects on your skin and as a result, you will need to discontinue the use.

Apply a thin layer. If you use a serum be cautious. With serums it is easier to make the mistake and use a larger amount.

Apply a moisturizer.

You may also apply first a moisturizer, then retinol and again moisturizer.

Do not exfoliate before applying retinol or retinal. You should generally avoid exfoliating your skin during the adjustment period. You risk to damage your skin barrier. The same rule applies when later on, you will increase the retinoid concentration.

Never start any retinoid use during the summer. You risk to cause sun damage. If you haven’t used it yet, you can wait a little longer until autumn.

If in the morning you apply a vitamin C serum which can also be irritating and dehydrating, don’t use it the next morning. You can perfectly apply it the morning following the night without retinol use. You can do this for the adjustment period.

Wash your face in the morning with your gentle cleanser, apply moisturizer.

Use sunscreen in the morning even if it is cloudy. UV rays penetrate the clouds too. The clouds reduce the UV radiation but don’t block it.

Retinoids can be combined with

Hyaluronic acid or other moisturizing factors.

Peptides

Niacinamide

Vitamin C. It is advisable to apply vitamin C in the morning and retinol or retinal in the night.

Ceramides

Growth factors, proteins that boost  cell function, collagen and elastin production and skin regeneration.

Mild cleansers

Retinoids can’t be combined with

AHA s (alpha-hydroxy-acids)

BHAs (beta-hydroxy-acids)

Other retinoids. You should opt for one retinoid.

Benzoyl peroxide which is used in the treatment of acne. You should discuss with your dermatologist if you decide to introduce a retinoid in your skincare routine.

Retinol purge or retinol uglies

It is nothing else but a temporary skin condition that appears during the adjustment period. Dryness, irritation, breakouts may occur. It is alleged that this is the sign that the retinoid works.  Increase the hydration of your skin and avoid any exfoliation.

It is also claimed that purge can last a couple of weeks up to four weeks. Nevertheless, if you see that it lasts more, you should probably reduce the frequency of use or it simply means that your skin can’t tolerate the retinoid.

At this point, it is highly recommended to strengthen your skin barrier. Add ceramides and moisturizers with fatty acids. If you have breakouts, you should avoid products with fermented ingredients because they may sometimes exacerbate the problem.

If you notice that the retinol purge symptoms persist, contact a dermatologist.

The bottom line: The use of retinoids can bring many benefits to the skin if done properly but may also damage the skin barrier if done improperly. If despite all this you feel that your skin reacts to any retinoid and can’t tolerate it, discontinue the use. Your anti-aging skincare routine can consist of other active substances with good results as well.